Method and means for producing knitted elastic fabrics



Jan.2,1940 G. GASTRICH ,am4 2,185,844

METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Filed April 8, 1937 ll Sheets-Sheet 1 Jan. 2, G, GASTRICH 'ET AL METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Filed April 8, 1937 11 Sheets-Sheet 2 @@@wmm l HHIIWIHIHUHHIIHHHHIHHHUHWIHHHWHWWHIHHIHIP/ )ZM I I FLE- El..

QW v,4 TTORNE Jan 2, 1940- G. GASTRICH ET AL 2,185,844

METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Filed April S, 1957 11 sheets-sheet 5 f f/l 7 f;

INVENTORS:

Jan. 2, 1940. G. GAs'rRlcH ET. Al.

METHOD AND MENS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS` Filed April 8, 1937 ll Sheets-Sheet 4 'las'. Ime@ mm mvmm dmmmd/ QNN .MY l. l NQ NN @F l@ \\m\\ @25 Jan. 2, 1940.

INVENTORS.' d w k (s,

ATTORNEY).

Jan' 2, 1940- G. GAsTRlcH ET A1. 2,185,844

METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Filed April 8, 1937 11 Sheets-Sheet 6 yf d INI/@Nro z ATTORNEY? METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS 11 Sheets-Sheet 7 s. GAsTRlcH ET L l 2,185.844

Filed April 8, 1937 INVENTORS: `Jwzav @www ATToRN Jan 2,- .1940- G. GAsTRlcl-l ET AL. 2,185.844

METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Filed April 8, 195')v 11 sheets-sheet a E `l E' INVENTORS;

Jam'zf'1940 'Y G. GAsTRlcl-l ET A1. I 2,185,844'

METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Filed April 8, 1937 ll Sheets-Shea?l 9 Fl, E-EE.

BY y 'f A@ ATTORNE v Jan. 2, 1940. G. GAsTRlcH ET A1.

METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Filed April 8, 1937 1].. Sheets-Sheet lO FLE- E 5- ATTOR Y.

Jan' 2, 1940- `G. GAsTRlcH 'ET Al. 2,185,844'- METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Filed April 8, 19:57 11 sheets-sheet 11 ,A gli 1:1 5.251-

Patented Jan. 2. 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ELASTIC FABRICS Application April s, 1937, serial' No. 135,664

35 Claims.

This invention relates to a method and means for producing knitted elastic fabric structure.

One object of our invention is to provide means for producing a knitted flat fabric having an additional yarn held between certain of the loops, in some or all of the courses, and which shall have narrow areas for seaming purposes along the edges free of the additional yarn and a transverse edge completely of anti-ravel construction.

Another object of our invention is to provide a method of knitting an elastic flat fabric capable of being carried out by minor changes in a standard type knitting machine and whereby l a well appearing single ply fabric. may be made welt.

Another object of the invention is to provide a iiat knitting machine and a method of operating the same whereby an elastic yarn may be laid at the same, or approximately the same, time as the yarn to be knitted and held away from the needles while the loops of a given course are formed and the elastic yarn then inserted into said course in unstretched condition.

Another object of our invention is toprovide.

a at knitting machine and a method of operating the same whereby an elastic yarn may be inserted betwen loops in a succession of walewise spaced knitted courses in a fabric, in a manner 3o to ensure that the fabric will lie iiat without puckers or gathers.

Another object of our invention is to provide a novel method of laying a reinforcingyarn and of introducing it into knitted courses in straight I5 lengths.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel mechanical method whereby a at knitted fabric may be made with unknitted reinforcing in a central zone and with unreinforced seaming Lif) zones along the selvedges. A 1

Another object of the`invention is to provide a method and a means whereby the excess length of a section of straight yarn which is initially as long or longer Athan a course and which has .-15 been inserted between loops in only a portion of a course may be taken up without puckering the fabric.

Another object of the invention is,to provide an arrangement whereby a known center lace attachment may be adapted to cooperate with the pattern chain of a flat knitting machine in inserting a straight strand between loops of a given knittedcourse.

Another object of our in ention is to provide an' arrangement whereby a arn for knitting and another yarn can be laid at substantially the same time but the other yarn held out of the path of the needles until after the formation of the loops for a course and then caught bythe loops to incorporate the other yarn into the fabric.

having sufficient body tosimulate a donble ply 2 the way;

` invention shown in the accompanying drawings,

our inventionresides in the novel fabric, method of producing fabric, mechanisms, elements of construction and parts in cooperative relationship as hereinafter set forth in the claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. l is a perspective view of a stocking made m in accordance with our invention;

Fig. 2 is an elevation of a blank for the welt and leg portion of the stocking shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 3-3 of Fig. u Fig. 4 is a detail on an enlarged scale of the upper left hand corner of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a detail view similar to Fig. 4,- but showing certain ravel courses before they have been pulled out; s'

Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic View showing the relative positions of the needle bar andthe lock stitch bar at the beginning of the formation of the lock stitch course shown in Figs. 4 and 5;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 showing the relative positions of the parts in a period midway in the Aformation of the lock stitch course;

Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic View showing the relative positions of the needle bar and the lock stitch bar at the beginning of one of the reinforced or elastic courses shown in Figs. 4 and 5;

Fig. 9 is a detail perspective View showing the relative positions of certain parts just after the formation of the sinker loops for a `reinforced or elastic course; ,t

Fig. 10 is a detail View illustrating theposition of the parts just before the alternate loops have been lifted from their needles to permit the insertion of a reinforcing or elastic yarn in la course; l; Fig. 11 is a View similar vto Fig. 10 but showing alternate loops lifted from their needles, the lock stitch points and the hooks for the elastic yarn being in diiierent positions;

Fig. l2 is a View similar to Fig. .l1 but in which the sinkers and dividers have pushed the elastic yarn into `the angle between the lifted loops and those on the needles, the hooks having moved forward out Yci? the way;

Fig. 13 is a View similar to'Fig. 12 showing the 50 mechanism thereof after the alternate loops are restored to their needles, the sinkers and dividers havingbeen withdrawn and projected again to push the loops down on the needles;

Fig. 14 is a view similar to Fig. 13 except that 55 the points, needles and hooks are in different positions;

Fig.' 15 fis a vew similar to Fig. 14'except that the lock stitch points have been drawn up out of Fig. 16 is an elevational View of a portion of a Cotton type of flat knitting machine constructed in accordance with our invention;

Fig. 17 is, a sectional elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 16, the line of section being near the left end of the machine;

Fig. 18 is an enlarged detailed view of the friction box shown in Fig. 17 certain of the parts being broken away;

Fig. 19 is a top plan view of certain of the mechanism shown in Fig. 18, taken in the direction of the arrow A and turned about an angle of ninety degrees relative to said figure;

Fig. 20 is a sectional view taken on the line 20-20 of Fig. 16;

Fig. 21 is a sectional view taken substantially along the line 2|-2I of Fig. 16;

Fig. 22 is a detail plan view of the mechanism of Fig. V16 illustrated in Fig. 21;

Fig. 23 is a sectional view taken on the line 23-23 of Fig. 22;

Fig. 24 is a front elevational view showing certain details of Fig. 22;

Fig. 25 is a sectional view taken substantially on the line 25--25 of Fig. 16;

Fig. 26 is a detail plan View of certain parts lying in the lower portion of the machine and at the left end of Fig. 16;

Fig. 2'7 is a sectional view taken along the line 21-21 of Fig. 26;

Fig. 28 is a detail view of one of the hooks shown in Fig. 21 and enlarged relative thereto;

Fig. 30 is a sectional View of the carrier rod end stop nut shown in Fig. 16;

Fig. 31 is a rear elevational view of the carrier rod end stop nut shown in Fig. 16; and

Fig. 32 is a sectional view taken along the line 32-32 of Fig. 31.

The drawings show a at or full-fashioned knitting machine havi l only those parts of a kn ttingmachine necessary for an understanding of the invention are shown, the various other parts and mechanisms and their manner of operation are well known in the art, and are shown and described in detail in the Reading Full Fashioned Knitting Machine Catalogue (copyrighted 1929 and 1935) and'two pamphlets entitled The Reading Full Fashioned Knitting Machine comprising articles reprinted from The Yarn Carrier (copyrighted 1935 andl 1936), all .published by thev Textile Machine Works, Reading, Pennsylvania.

In all thegures of the drawings except Fig. 25, the main cam shaft is shown in the angular position in which it must lie at the time it is shifted. In Fig. 25, however, the main cam shaft is shown in a position approximately 90 of arc beyond the shift position.

A fabric made in accordance with our invention is well suited for use in welts on full-fashioned hosiery and in such case the free edge may be of anti-rave] construction, either having. elastic at the extreme edge or not, as desired.

' The full-fashioned knitted stocking I illustrated in Fig. 1 is made largely from a blank 2 and has a lock stitch course 3 at its top. The welt portion 4 is of a fabric made in accordance with our invention and is of a flat knitted construction as is also the leg portion 5, parts 4 and 5 being also knitted together, the leg being full fashioned as illustrated in Fig. 1 and as indicated by the narrowing at 5a and 5b in Fig. 2. Welt Fig. 29 is aA view taken from the right of Fig.`

a main cam shaft, but

4 may be of either single ply or double ply fabric. but is well adapted to render the double ply well largely unnecessary. In making the fabric illustrated, and as indicated in Fig. 5, several ordinary ravel courses 6 are first knitted of the ordinary or non-elastic body yarn 1 and an antiravel course 3 provided. This may be done by transferring alternate needle loops to needles already having loops thereon. When the ravel courses first knitted are then pulled out, a lockstitch anti-ravel or picot edge 3 results. However, an anti-ravel edge such as that disclosed in the prior Patent No. 2,067,486, issued January 12, 1937, for Hosiery, to Gustav Gastrich,'one of the inventors hereof, may be employed. A fabric within our invention has an ordinary body 'la of loops 9 interknitted in courses I0 in the Way ordinarily used for flat knitted fabrics and which may be either of one yarn or several yarns as desired depending on whether or not the ringless system of knitted is employed, but preferably only a single yarn in a given course. However, our said fabric includes also an additional yarn 8 inserted into some or all of the courses of the body fabric, preferably, at desired intervals. Such additional yarn 8 may desirably be elastic and heavier than the body yarn 1 and is not acted on by the needles in any way but is inserted into the courses Illa so as to form straight runs 811:. The knitted loops 9 of body yarn are arranged in the courses Illa containing yarn 8 to lie some on one side of the elastic yarn and some on the other side thereof so that the loops of the courses embrace the elastic yarn 8 substantially throughout the coursewise extent of the elastic yarn, the resulting fabric having therefore the elastic yarn interwoven in the knitted loops of body yarn.

In case the welt is to be double ply, instead of knittingonly a few courses before the lock-stitch course, an ordinary plain knitted section the full length of theA double-ply portion is knitted, the lock stitch course is knitted, and another section of the length of the double ply portion is knitted containing the elastic yarn 8. Thereupon, the first course is topped from the welt hooks backonto the needles. l

The method employed by us of making the herein disclosed fabric comprises laying the body yarn 'I and the elastic yarn 8 for each of the courses Illa at substantially the same time, holding the elastic yarn 8 out of the path of the needles while the loops 9 of the body fabric 1a are being knitted, lifting certain loops of 4the last knitted course from their needles by lock- Jstitch or lace points while retaining the other loops of the same course on the needles, shifting .the points and needles relatively to each other to form a shed 9a of loops, carrying the elastic yarn 8 in straight condition into such shed and then laying and'knitting the next course of body yarn 1 to fasten the loops of the shedded course about the elastic yarn. While the elastic yarn can be included in very course if desired, it is preferred to float the bight 8a of the elastic yarn between two adjacent runs 8x over two or more courses I0 so that the courses I0a having elastic along the selvedges Y free from the elastic yarn which can be used for seaming in order to keep down the thickness of the seam and to prevent cutting the elastic by the sewing needles. This is .provided for in the preferred method of and mechanism for making the fabric by beginning the shedding of the loops at points spaced inwardly from the walewise edges of the fabric and providing a special snapper action to ensure that there shall be no slack elastic yarn in the finished fabric so that the floated portions or bights 8a, of elastic yarn shall not project materiallyfbeyond the embracing loops, but at the same time the elastic yarn 8shal1 not be under any tension at the end of the knitting roperation and the fabric will therefore lie fiat and not contain any-gathers or puckers. A coursewise pull on the knitted fabric will, however, stretch the elastic so that the fabric can be used as a garter.

If, however, it is so desired, the shedding can be extended completely to the edges of the fabric, or can be begun at one edge or approximately at one edge and be displaced correspondingly farther from the other edge.

Preferably, the fabric is single ply as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5, and has an anti-ravel or picot course 3 along itsI top. For single ply fabric, course 3 is formed as illustrated in Figs. 5, 6 and 7 First, several plain courses 6 are knitted in the usual Way and then the picot or lock stitch course 3. The latter, however, must be formed in a special way because the machine Villustrated has a special lock stitch or lace b ar II. Ordinarily, the number of points I Ia in bar II is one-half that of the needles I2a in the needle bar I2, so that the lace points being two needle distances apart, the two bars are of substantially the same length. As it is desired to use the lbar II at a later point in the process for making a shed of loops lbeginning at points spaced inward from the walewise edges of the fabric, it

`is given fewer points than ordinarily and issubstantially shorter than the needle bar. In order therefore that the lock stitches shall run entirely across course 3, it is necessary to dip and shift the Abar II twice. The two bars II and I2 first -are set in the position shownl in Fig. 6 with the one end point IIa of bar II in alignmentV with the needle I2w at one end of bar I2 and the other points of lace bar I I in alignmentwith odd numbered needles.- Then, `the bar I I is dipped, raised and dipped at the proper point in` bar II is then moved so that the point at its Y, other end, the right end as viewed in Figs. 6 and '7, is in alignment -with next to the last needle `in bar'l2. As bar I2 always has an even number of needles, bar II now is set so that it again has its points above the odd numbered needles of bar I2 and, when it dips a second time, it/does not disturb any loops already transferred but lifts only the odd numbered loops previously missed and transfers them to even numbered needles to continue the lock stitches to the end` of the course I0 being operated on.

The means illustrated for positioning and?l chines) of which'the lock stitch bar II Yis aniL adjunct; Attachment vI3 is mounted on the front-1y narrowing shaft I5 beingsupported from aplate 1.0

I6 which is fixed in turn to a sleeve I'I surrounding shaft I5. The upper end of plate I6 has fixed therein a pivot pin I8 on which is rotatably mounted a cam structure comprising cams I9 andA I9w. Cams I9 and I9a are shown in Fig. 1'7 15 as formed of parallel plates, the front one of which, is for producing the lock stitch course 3 and the back member isI for producing elastic courses Ilia. A lever 20 is pivoted on plate I6 at 2I land carries at one end a roller 22 whichl bears against the edge of one or the other of two paralel plate cams I9 and I9a. The other end of lever 20 bears against a collar 23 on lock stitch shaft 24 from which lock stitch bars II are supported; Cam I9 and lever 29 lie in a plane parallel to shaft 24 and a pivoting movement of lever 20 shifts shaft 24 in Aone direction orpermits it to shift in the other direction under the infl-uence of a springA not shown. Cam I9 has a circular segment the radius of which is 30 the maximum radius of the cam I9 so that when roller 22 is on said circular segment shaft 24 is thrust the maximum distance in one direction,L toward the left when viewed as in Fig. 16. When cam I9 is turned so that roller 22 first runs off 35 the sector of maximum radius, bar II is firstv jshifted only one needle distance to the right.

'Ihe next turn of cam I9shifts bar I I to' the right until its right hand point IIa is only one needle distant from the right hand needle -I2a. The 40 next step'of` cam I9 shifts bar II its maximum distance to the right and a further step of cam `I9 throws bar II to the left to its substantially ,central positionV at which position the roller 22 is moved to the back cam I9a in the usual man- 45 ner so that the lace points' IIaYwill lift loops from the alternate needles when dipped but not lift any in the zones X along selvedges Y. Back cam I9a is quite round so that the machine will continue to make courses Ilia containing yarn 50 8 wheneverA bar II is dipped as long as roller 22 remains on cam I9a and bar II also remains in itsl active position. In adidtion to the cams I9 and I9a pin or post I8 has mounted thereon a hub (not shown) and a toothedratchetwheel 55 426 by which said hub and cams I9, I9a are 36 and 30a, the former of which carries a pawl 3| for racking wheel 26 when the arms on sleeve 29 are suitably oscillated and such oscillation 1s produced automatically by means hereinbelow70 described each time a dipping action of shafts I5 Hand 24 is caused by the usual narrowing motion. Post I8 also carries a hand wheel 80 which is normally p-ressed out against a nut 8Ia at ythe outer end of post I8 by a coil spring 8|. Wheel 75 Cil 80 has a finger 82 thereon which projects close to the toothed edge of wheel 26, when in the position shown in Fig. 17. By` pressing on the wheelv80, however, the end of nger 82 may be forced between two teeth of wheel 26 and by then "turning wheel 80, the ratchet 26 and cam structure may be turned to set the cams I9, I9a, and thereby the `bar II, in any position desired'. such as that for beginning a. stocking.

As above mentioned, the shaft I5 from which shaft 24 and lock-stitch bars II are supported is part of the narrowing mechanism. The narrowing mechanism I4 illustrated is operated from the main cam shaft 33 as is usually the case. Also, as usual, shaft 33 is shiftabi'e axially to occupy either one of two positions and the cams for operating the various motions or mechanisms of the machine are divided into two groups. The cams of one group are arranged to be active when shaft 33 is in one axial position, the knitting position, and those of another group when shaft 33 is in the other, the narrowing position, the axial position of the cam. shaft being determined by the usual pattern chain motion 34. A cam 35 for the narrowing motion which causes the dipping of front narrowing shaft I5 is in the inactive position when the cam shaft is in its left hand position. Shifting of the cam shaft 33, to place cam 35 in action must occur, when knitting the fabric of Figs. I4 and 5, just after knitting the loops for course 3. At this time, a button on pattern chain 36 throws the chain motion 34 into action so that its roller 34a is thrown inwardly or rearwardly by a strong spring to engage the side of right shifting cam 31 to shift shaft 33 toward the right as viewed in Fig. 16 to thereby throw into operation the cam 35 which Yvariesthe level of the front narrowing shaft I5 and thereby the lock stitch shaft 24 to dip the bars II and points Ila. After the shaft 33 has made almost one revolution and shafts I5 and 24 with bar II have been dipped and raised again, chain motion 34 draws roller 34a forward to contact the left shifting cam 31a and return the shaft 33 to the knitting position again. The narrowing mechanism, however, includes narrowing combs 38 and 39, which are fixed to bars 40 and 4I and are movably supported from shaft I5 so that the points in the combs are at the same level as those in bar II when the latter are in active position. Combs 38 and 39 are shown in Fig. 16 outside the knitting field so that they will not act on the fabric during the dipping motion of shaft I5. However, inthe ordinary action of the narrowing motion, the nuts Nn (only one of which is shown) on the narrowing head N are stepped at each dip of shaft I5 to move bars 4I) and 4I to shift combs 38 and 39 toward the fabric. O wing'to the repeated dips of bars II required to carry out the steps performed by them,'the combs 38 and 39 would thereby beshifted to act on the fabric, an undesired effect at the time. The machine li1- vlustrated therefore is provided with means frequently employed in flat knitting machines whereby the nuts on the narrowing head, and therefore combs 48 and 4I, may be prevented from shifting when the shaft I5 is dipped.

The dipping of lace points IIa'being 'caused by the narrowing mechanism which .includes the front narrowing shaft I5 and the narrowing cam 35, it is important to prevent the action of the narrowing points in combs 38 and 39 during .the`

formation of the picot course 3 and the special courses .Illa because .the fabric having courses 3 and I Ila is not.narrowed for the reason that such fabric is usually in the welt o'f a"stocking and the welt is the widest part `of the stocking. Means for this purpose are shown in Figs. 16, 25, 26 and27. The cam 42 shown in Fig. 16 causes the inward movement of the narrowing combs by acting on a roller 43 (Figs. 16 and 26) journalled in an arm 44 (Fig. 26) to raise and lower arm 44. The up and down motion of arm 44 acts through the usual linkage 45 to rack the threaded shaft or spindle 46 on narrowing head N. Nuts Nn on the spindle 46 are thereby moved to shift the combs 38 and 39 by connections not shown. The roller 43, however, is selectively controlled by the pattern chain so as not to contact with cam 42 except when desired. Roller 43 is mounted so it can be shifted longitudinally of cam shaft 33, and for this purpose a lever 48,

pivoted on an intermediate vertical axis 48a (Fig.

49 being held to the left by a lever 50 coupled to the rod and pivoted at 5I on a vertical axis. Lever 50 has a fork 52 in which is pivoted on a horizontal axis 53 an arm 54 the forward end of which carries a vertical pin 55 on which is journalled a roller 56 adapted, when arm 54 is lowered, to

`bearagainst the side of a cam 51 having caming surfaces both on its side and periphery. Cam 51 is adapted to cause the roller 56 to swing to the right to thereby shift the front end of lever arm 48 to carry roller 43 to the right and to thereby avoid camv 42 and tol prevent racking of the narrowing combs when shaft 33 moves to the right. In the position shown in Figs. 16, 25 and 26, such action is prevented by a lever 58 (Fig. 25) which "is pivoted at its lower end to a fixed part of the machine at point 59. The upperend of lever 58 is notched to engage and support the forward end of a pivoted extension 60 of arm 54 to hold roller 43 and arm 44 active by holding roller 56 above'the rim of cam 51. When desired, however, a button on the pattern chain 36 acts on lever 6| (Fig. 16) of the chain motion 34 to push rod 62 to the right and thereby push lever 58 which is connected to one end of rod 62 out from under extension 68. When this occurs, lever 60 drops down sothat a roller 63, also pivoted on arm 54 but on -ahorizontal axis, rests on the periphery of cam 51. At the same time ro11er'56 drops into a cut-out 51a in the right side of cam 51 so as to engage the right side of cam 51 so that, as cam 51 continues to revolve, roller 56 moves to the right and throws roller 43 to the right long enough to prevent the roller 43 from operating linkage 45. Toward the end of the revolution of shaft 33, a projection 51h on cam 51 throws roller 63 upwardly and thereby permits lever 58, under the inuence of a spring, not shown, to swing back under extension 60 to hold it and roller 43 in position to actuate the narrowing combs when desired. While, no use is made ofthe narrowing combs in making the fabric shown in Figs. 3 and 4 and at the top of Figs. 1 and 2,.they, ofcourse, are used in fashioning'thejleg andy ankle portions of the blank shown in FigZ. `.On the other hand, when the narrowing combs are used on the leg section of the stocking blank, the lock stitch bar II is swung up out of the way so as not to act on the fabric.

The details hereinbefore set forth are directed to making a single ply fabric. In case a doubleply fabric suitable for a double ply welt is to be made, it is necessary only to set the buttons on followers or rollers being shown on the right hand cam disks, most of the cams on shaft 33 being provided in pairs so 'that the rollers are given the proper motion both in the knitting and non-knitting positions of the cam shaft or are kept idle on round disks when it is desired to keep'their corresponding mechanisms out of action. As usual, the weight of the narrowing mechanism including that of shafts I5 and 24 rests during knitting largely on the idler disk 35a and when shaft 33 is shogged or shifted axially to the right, the

weight is transferred to the lifting narrowing cam 35 which is shaped to cause a dipping of shafts I5 and 24 at two points in its revolution and to rturn the shafts I5 and 24 to their Voriginal level at the end of each revolution. Owing to the relatively short length of bar II, the pattern chain 36 must have two buttons thereon set close together at one point to cause a shogging and dip' ping action on each of two successive revolutions of cam shaft 33. Such successive shogging and dipping actions when properly coordinated with the horizontal movements of bar I I controlled by cam I9 produce the lock stitch course 3.

The coordination of cams I9 and 35 is produced by a cam 64 on shaft 33. Cam 66 is so placed that it is inactive when shaft 33 is in the knitting position, its follower roller 65 being shown in Fig. I6 on the idler disk 66a, companion to cam 66. Whenever shaft 33 has been shogged to the right, cam 64 is thrown into engagement with the follower 65 (Fig. 17). At the proper point in the succeeding revolution of shaft 33, the bent lever 66, at one end of which roller 65 is journalled, is pressed by the cam 64 downward and outward vfrom the shaft to raise the rear end of the hori` lower end of an upwardly inclined link 'I2 the shaft I5.

forward end of which is connected by a pivot pin 13 to an arm 14 fixed to a sleeve 'I5 (Fig. 16) on Consequently, motion of roller 65 is transmitted through parts 66, 61, 69 and 12 to arm 14 to rock arm 14 and pin 13 about shaft I5 as an axis. Pin 13 (Fig. 16) projects from parts 12 and 14 parallel to shaft I5 to contact an arm 15 (Fig. 16) of a bell crank lever 11 (Fig. 17) pivoted on a bolt 18 fixed to plate I6. The lever 11 swings in a vertical plane perpendicular to shaft I5 and has a horizontal arm 19 which projects forward immediately beneath arm 30a so as to lift and lower arm 30ar in response to movements of pin 13 to thereby rack cam I9 as previously described in properly timed relation to the dipping action.

After lock stitch course 3 of Fig. 5 has been shaft 89 having a straight spline 90.

completedacross the entire width of the fabric, or as soon thereafter as convenient, the lock stitch bar II is brought to the position shown in Fig. 8 to assist inmaking the special course Ia (Figs. 4

Assuming that the fabric made .in accordance with our invention is .to be used in the welt portion of a stocking, yarn 1 may be heavier.

than the yarn used in the leg portion of the stocking, but, owing to the reinforcing effect of the elastic yarn 8 in course Illa and others like it, aweltmade of the fabric herein disclosed is`wel1 reinforced and the same weight ,of body yarn may be employed throughout both thewelt and leg portions of the stocking if desired. I

In the fabric shown in Figs. 4 and 5, acourse Illa. containing elastic 8' follows immediately after course 3 and other courses Illa follow at regularly spaced intervals. A course I 6a consists `of ordinary loops 9 of body' yarn 1, alternate loops of which, with the exception of those in strips X,

lie on one side of and alternate loops of which lie on the other side of a straight run 8x of relatively heavy elastic yarn Il'.v The forming of a course.l l Illa involves the use of two yarn carriers, one for each of yarns 1 and 8.V Carrier 83 (Fig. 9) is used for laying yarn 1, which also forms courses I0, l and carrier 84 (Figs. 9 and 20) is used for laying may use any of bars a to y, inclusive, equally well.r

As the special courses |80, are shown as separated by several plain courses I Il, carrier 86 must remain stationary part of the time that carrier 83 is in operation. The friction box for yarn carrier 86 therefore must have certain special features. The friction box for carrier 86 is shown in Figs. 18, 19 and 20, but that' for carrier 83, may be entirely commonplace and is not shown. Theyboth are operated by the usual friction box rod 86. Box 85 differs from the ordinary form in the length of transverse slide bar 81 (Figs.

18 and 19) and in the fact that bar 81 is connected to be moved by automatic means. The outer end of bar 81 carries a handle 81a and has a downward projection 81badapted to engage a dog .88 on carrier bar h to drive the carrier bar in the usual manner. i

The means illustrated for shifting bar 81 to engage and disengage the dog 88 comprises a On shaft 89 is a sleeve 9|,mounted to slide r'on the shaft but engaging the spline 98 toprevent it from turning relatively thereto. Friction box 85 has two arms 92 (Fig. 19) which reciprocate sleeve 9| on shaft 89 synchronously with box 85. Fixed to sleeve 9I is an arm 93 which is connected by a cylinder and socket joint 9d (Fig. 18) to the inner or rear end of bar 81 to reciprocate the bar Whenever shaft 89 is oscillated. Near one end thereof, shaft 89 has an arm 95 xed thereto (Figs. 18 and 19) the free end of which has a pin 96 pivoted therein and fixed to the upper end of a rod- 91 (Figs. 16, 18 and 20) the lower end of which is pivoted near the rear end of ahorizontal lever 98 (Fig. 20) which is carired, at 98a, by a bracket 98h xed to the frame of the machine. At its rear end, lever 98 is engaged by the lower end of a spring 99, the upper end of which is held at a fixed level by the rear narrowingV shaft 1I] and therefore tends to throw shaft 89 in the counterclockwise direction to hold bar 81 forward in the position shown and in which its projection 81h will engage and move yarn carrier bar h. This position of the parts is shown in Figs. 18 and 19, but is not the more usual one, the majority of the fabric being free of yarn 8 and therefore requiring that rod Ah and carrier 84 remains stationary While it is being made. During the knitting of the plain courses in which yarn 8 is not incorporated, the lever 98 is held with its front end up and its rear end down by a vertical lever |00 the lower end of which is pivoted on bracket I0| fixed to the frame of the machine. Lever |00 is operated by a rod |02 which is operated in turn by a lever |03 incorporated in the chain motion 34. The lower end of lever |03'is arranged to contact with a butto-n on pattern chain 381 to throw the upper end of the lever to the right as viewed in Fig. 16 to unlatch lever |00 from lever 98 to permit spring 99 to throw the parts so as to engage yarn carrier bar h with the friction box 85 to lay a length of elastic yarn 8.

The lever 98 carries a roller 98o, which engages a cam |05 on the cam shaft 33 and after laying an elastic course, the cam |05 raises the front end of lever 98 to permit the lever |00 to swing back under the lever 98 and hold it in a raised position, thereby maintaining the slide bar 81 in an inoperative position relative to the dog 88 on the carrier bar h. The lever 98 is held in a raised position until a button on the pattern chain unlatches the lever |00, permitting spring 99 to engage the slide bar with the carrier bar h, to lay another course |0a. The spacing of the elastic courses |0a in the fabric therefore are dependent upon the setting of buttons on the pattern chain 36 in the vertical plane of lever |03.

In the arrangement shown, the bar h of,yarn carrier 84 has a greater throw than the bar having yarn carrier 83 thereon so that yarn 8 as laidextends between points lying outside the selvedges of the knitted fabric. The means shown for manipulating thread 8 includes, in addition to carrier 84, a pair of hooks |04 placed outside the knitting needles and movable both up and down and backward and forward roughly -parallel to vertical planes parallel to the motion of the fabric. During the yarnlaying portion of the knitting cycle, hooks |04 stand as shown in Figs. 9, 20 and 21, with their mouths |04a, just about the level of the upper edges of the sinkers and dividers and so that a carrier tube 84a of the carrier 84 may pass through the mouths |04a (see Fig. 10). 'I'he carrier 84 is also provided with notches 8.417 in alignment with the mouths |04a of the hooks |04, which hold the yarn 8 centrally of the mouths |04a while the yarn is being fed from one hook to the other. In order to facilitate the threading of carrier tube 84a an opening 84e is preferably provided at the back of the tube. The two yarns 1 and 8 are laid at the same stroke of the friction box rod 86 with the carrier 83 slightly in advance of carrier 84 which lays yarn 8 along the top edges of the sinkers. Carrier 84 may be ahead of the slur cock, but, with the arrangement shown, there is then danger that yarn 8 may catch on the upper corners of the sinkers. Yarn 1, of course, is laid on the noses of the sinkers in the usual way.

Thel relative positions of the two yarn carriers 83 and 84 and the sinkers, dividers, transfer points Ila, the hooks |04, and the yarns Tand 8 at the point in the cycle just before the knitting needles engage the new loopsare shown in Fig. 9. The yarn 8 has been laid and lies along vand narrowing operations.

the tops of the dividers and sinkers and between one hook |04 at one end and carrier 84 at the other, extending also through the hook |04 nearer carrier 84. The actions of the knitting needles in forming the ordinary loops are not illustrated, but such loops are knitted in the period between the positions of the parts shown in Fig. 9 and those shown in Fig. 10. The needle bar cam for the knitting operation may have the usual shape. The presser cams, however,.need to be a little higher than commonly used, both for the knitting During this period the dividers come forward and retract with the sinkers and both come forward again as usual. In order to prevent the yarn 8 from rubbing or catching on the sinkers and dividers, the hooks |04 are raised somewhat from the position occupied when yarn 8 is first laid before the dividers make their first forward stroke, the yarn having suiiicient tension due to its snapper mechanism (hereinbelow described) to lift so as not to drag on the sinkers and dividers. Yarn 8 having been laid for a given course |0a shown in Fig. 9 and the loops for the course knitted, shaft 33 is shifted by cam 31 at the end of the same revolution. Due to the shift 4of the said shaft between the position of Fig. 9 and that of Fig. 10, the clutch of the usual coulier motion, which is not shown, has been thrown` into inactive position whereupon the mechanisms which are actuated by the coulier mechanism during the normal knitting operations, remain idle when the cam shaft is in said shifted position.' As is well known, lthe sinkers and dividers are forward almost' to their fullest extent at the beginning of the shifting or shogging motion of shaft 33. For well known practical reasons, the cam for controlling the sinkers and dividers in the narrowing position acts to draw back the sinkers and dividers during the shifting period. After the shift has been completed, in order to form a course |0a, the lock stitch points Ila, are brought into play. The sinkers and dividers therefore are thrust for- Ward beginning almost immediately at the end of shift of shaft 33 and before the instant of Fig. 10 so that they cooperate with the points Ila in the ordinary way as the points next come down preparatory to picking the alternate loops oif the needles. Also prior to the position shown in Fig. 9 the lock stitch bar Il has been shifted by the spring associated therewith, as regulated by cam I9, to lie centrally of the needle bed, as near as may be. By the time the points ||a have been lowered by cam 35 sufficiently to close the beards of the needles and to pass between certain loops and the needles as shown in Fig. 10, the sinkers and dividers have begun to draw back again. 'I'he cam 35 then lifts the points ||a to the position shown in Fig. 11. 'I'he cam I9, however, is shaped to hold bar in the same longitudinal position for a while so that points a do not transfer the loops thereon during the formation of any course |0a. In the period between Figs. 10 and 11, the points and needles both move upwardly at about the same rate for a time `after the points once insert themselves into the loops. As the points Ila and needles |2a move up from the position of Fig. 10, hooks |04 are moved down so that their mouths |04a are at the same level as those of the sinkers and dividers as shown in Fig. 11, the mouths |04a,`

` sinkers, a point higher than any reached by the machine.

at this instant is at the level of the tops of the fabricin knitting on the ordinary flat knitting (Therefore, the needle bar cam for the narrowing position and the narrowing cam 35 both have to be higher than for the ordinary machine.) The sinkers and dividers thereupon are pushed forward by the catch bar |06 to carry 'yarn 8 against the beards of the needles as show n in.Fig. 12, the hooks |04 at the same time moving to points forward of the line of the needles thereby withdrawing the longer lower lips' |04b of hooks |04 from beneath the' yarn 8. At this time, the narrowing cam 35 has begun to again dip the points ||a to replace the loops thereon on the needles |2a on which they were formed and from which they were lifted. The needles |2a also go down at the same time, but the points ||a move downwardly faster than needles |2a, so that the yarn 8 is caught between the points and needles and held there as the sinkers and dividers draw back again. Fig. 13 shows the parts as they appear midway of the step of replacing the alternate loops on their needles. The sinkers and dividers continue `to be moved rearwardly by bar |06 and the points and needles are carried down to move the fabric down against the top edges of knockover bits |01. However, as the needles continue their downward movement after the points come to a stop, one half the loops are drawn down below the horizontal plane of the fabric to forma` shed 9a into which yarn 8 is forced, it being held by bits |01 so that the tops of the needles pass below it to contact the points (Fig. 14). By this time', the sinkers and dividers have. been brought fully forward again and the needles thereupon begin to rise and, owing to the loops being below the sinkers, to strip the loops off points la, and down onto the stems of needles |2a in preparation to shifting shaft 33 back to knitting position. Points ||a, however, rise faster than needles |20. so that points a are well up out of the way by the end of the revolution of shaft 33 in the right hand or narrowing position. The positions of the parts just before the shift back tothe left 'hand or knitting position of shaft '33 are shown in Fig. 15. In the meantime, starting from the position shown in Fig. 12, the hooks |04 are raised and carried rearwardly to their initial position through a path avoiding yarn 8. 'I'he 'yarn 8 is held straight between the knitted loops with alternate loops above and .alternate loops below it, but the yarn 8 is not caught between the loops fora distance at each edge of the fabric because of the relatively short length of bar I leaving seaming strips or zones X, X one along each of the selvedges Y, Y. After the sinkers and dividers have been retracted by the catch bar |06 for the third time in the revolution,-

the yarn carrier bar h is released by the end of bar 8l, due to the action of cam |05 which raises lever 98 to permit a spring (not shown) on rod |02 and lever |03 to slip vertical stop lever |00 beneath the end of lever 98. The special friction box 85 is thereby maintained idle until the buttons on the pattern chain 36 initiate another elastic course |0a. The pattern chain thereupon causes the left shogging cam 31a to come into play to shift the cam shaft 33 back into vits left position shown in Fig. 16 and to initiate the knitting of another set of courses |0 formed solely of loops of inelastic yarn Y After two or more courses without elastic yarn, the yarn 8v stretches from a point adiacentone edge of the fabric to the carrier 84. The fabric being on a level below the sinkers, the yarn 8 runs from the fabric along the inner face of one 'that yarn 8 extends beneath the sinkers and dividers and there is therefore no danger that it will be caught and damaged by their rounded lower ends as might occur if yarn 8 were to pass from the fabric to the hooks |04 across the tops of the sinkers and dividers and therefore be exposed to the relatively pointed upper corners thereof. When nextl released from lip |04?) by the forward and downward motions of hooks |04, yarn 8 is free to float on the fabric parallel to the selvedge edges. Any looseness in the length of yarn 8 between the course in which it is being incorporated and the last one before it containing such yarn is prevented by the special snapper action for yarn 8. However, the yarn 8 is not under any tension in the finished fabric, so that there is no tendency of the fabric to pucker or gather and it lies flat. The yarn 8 being, however, much larger and stiffer than yarn in the case shown, it pro-jects in relatively pronounced ridges |08 (Fig. 3) on only one face; that is, the wrong face of the fabric, the upper face in Figs. 4 and 9. Such ridges, `especially when spaced apart, greatly magnify the garter action of the fabric having yarn 8 therein when used in the welt of a stocking and the tension in the yarn 8, when the stocking is being worn, need not be so great as would be the case if the ridge effect were absent. The reason why yarn 8 projects only on one side of the fabric and leaves the other side smooth is that certain loops are.

pulled rearwardly by the points Ha as illustrated in Figs. 11, 1.2 and 13 thereby lengthening these loops relatively to the others and, as soon as the points ||a have been withdrawn from the longer loops, the draw-off tension is taken primarily 'by the loops which remain under the needlescontinuously maintaining them in the plain knit fabric and throwing the yarn 8 to one side. Of course, the degree to which yarn 8 projects from one face of the fabric depends on' its size and its size compared tothat of the body yarn. If yarn 8 is not only of good size, but considerably larger than the body yarn, the arrangement shown, the optimum garter effect is obtained.

' The description of the operations partly illustrated in Figs. 9, 10,'11, 12 and 13 is based on a single ply fabric. we prefer to lift the look-stitch bar to rest position at the start of the first section to be used in the double ply welt and to throw it down and In making a double ply welt` to put it and the center lace attachment I3 into these figures, the hooks |04 are shown eachinposition for receiving yarn 8 from'. carrier 84, being so held by roller |09 (Fig. 21) which is resting on f cam on shaft 33, shaft 33 beingin its left position and the knitting cams being active. The connection between roller |09 and hooks |04 comprises a lever pivoted at one end on a pin ||2 fixed to the frame of the machine, roller |09 being journalled on a pin fixed to lever I intermediate its ends. .The other end of lever is plvotally connected to the lower end of a rod ||3 and is urged downwardly by a spring II4. The upper end of rod ||3 is pivoted to the rear end of a short lever |I5 (Fig. 22) the forward end of which is fixed to a shaft I6 pivoted in brackets |I1 on the front bed member II8 of the machine. Shaft IIS runs lengthwise of the machine and has a series of short levers I9 fixed thereto, two for each knitting section. The rear end of each lever I|9 (Figs. 22 and 28) is en'- larged into a sleeve within which is a pin |20 held in place Within the sleeve by a flange |2| at its top. The hooks |04 have horizontal offsets |04c at their lower ends which rest on the flanges |2| at the upper ends of pins |20 and are fixed to pins |20 by screws |22.

When the cam shaft has been shifted to the right, roller |09 then rests on cam ||0a, which has a shape permitting lever I|| to dip at the proper point under the influence of spring ||4 to lower rod ||3 and thereby lower the rear end of arm ||5 to swing shaft IIS counterclockwise as viewed in Fig. 21 and thereby to lower the rear ends of arms II9 which support the hooks |04. The movement of the arm ||5 is such as to lower hooks |04 the amount required to carry out their functions in introducing the yarn 8 into the fabric, but even though arm I5 is rather short the arcuate motion given hooks |04 by such arm when lowered is not sufiicient to disengage the hooks from the yarn 8. In order to increase the forward motion of hooks |04 at the desired point in their cycle, the lower end of each pin |20 has pressed thereon a short arm |23, Fig. 29, which lies parallel to the horizontal offset |04c of the hooks |04. The arms |23 are connected to links |24 by screws |25 and links 24 run forward beneath bed IIB to a pivotal connection with short arms |26 integral with sleeves |26a fixed on a shaft |21 pivoted in brackets |21a, also fixed to bed I|8. One end of shaft |21 has a sleeve fixed thereon integral with the rear end of a short arm |28 (Fig. 22) the front end of which is formed into a sleeve having a pivotal connection with the forked upper end of a rod |29. Rod |29 is inclined downward above lever I |I and fixed at its lower end to a pin pivoted in a lever |30, at a point I30a intermediate its ends. Lever |30 is pivoted at its forward end on the pin or post ||2, alongside lever Journalled on a pin on lever |30 is a roller |3| which rests on cam |32 when the cam shaft 33 is in its left` hand position as shown. A spring 33 secured to the rear end of lever |30 holds roller |3| down against the cam |32 and so keeps the front end of arm |28 down and the hooks |04 rearward during the knitting operations. When shaft 33 has been shifted to the right, roller |3| is then on cam |32a one portion of which serves to raise the front end of arm |28 and thereby draw forward the links |24 and swing hooks |04 to increase the forward movement of hooks |04 at the time they are lowered by cam I |0a. Owing to the fact that hooks |04 lie in their rearmost position at the beginning of the movement of the yarn carrier 84, it is necessary for the cam ||0a to raise the hooks |04 abruptly immediately after shifting the shaft 33. As appears in Fig.

4 through the usual roller |36.

21, the cam |32a, however, maintains at least as small a radius as at the shift point for some distance thereafter. In order therefore, that the roller I3| may shift from the right cam |32 to the left cam |32a without first rising and then dropping, cam |32 is cut back axially as shown at |323: so that the roller |3| may miss the rise on cam |32 when the shaft 33 is shogged to the l right.

If cam |32 were not cut back as indicated at |32:c, the roller |3| would begin to ride up on the cam |32 before the comple/tion of the longitudinal shift of shaft 33 and roller I3I would thereupon drop off the cam |32 onto a lower portion of the cam |320. during the revolution of shaft 33, causing an undesired jar as well as undesired movement of the hooks |04.

The movements of the catch bar |06 in projecting and retracting the sinkers and dividers to push the yarn 8 into position to be moved into the shed of loops 9a are caused by cam |34a (Fig. 25) which actuates therear catch bar linkage |35 Cam |34a causes only horizontal movements of the catch bar and is active when the cam shaft 33 is in its right hand position. As the catch bar I 06 makes three movements forward and back during each rotation made by the shaft 33 in its narrowing or right hand position, the cam I34a has, as shown, three high points. Cam |34a operates also when the lock stitch course 3 is formed. Catch bar |06 is also moved horizontally during the ordinary knitting, and the cam for this purpose ls shown at |34. Cam |34 is not substantially different, however, from the cam for the same purpose generally used. The frontlinkage |31 acts to raise and lower the front of the catch bar |06 to disengage and engage it with the sinkers during the ordinary knitting operation. Cam |38 shown in dotted lines in Fig. 25 and in full lines in Fig. 16 acts on linkage |31 through roller |31a.

The form and action of cam I 38 is not modified for purposes of the present invention. There is no action of linkage I 31 when the cam shaft 33 is in its right hand position and roller I 31 then rests on a round idling companion |38a (Fig. 16) of cam |38.

On account of the fact that the special friction box 85 is disconnected from yarn carrier bar h at the end of each stroke of the bar h, means is provided for latching bar h against rebound when it strikes its end stop so that it will always lie in a predetermined position when it is desired to reconnect it to box 85. Also the bar h must be released from the latch means at the time it is to lay another length of yarn 8. The means for these purposes is illustrated in Figs. 30, 31 and 32 and is the same as that ordinarily used in connection with plating. In these figures, the carrier end stop nut 41 is shown mounted in the usual way so as to be moved by a threaded shaft |39 by which it may be shifted. Head 41 has stops |40 thereon, one of which is in alignment with bar h. In order to prevent rebound of bar h when it hits its stop, a dog |4| is fixed to bar h and tapered at the end toward the stop shown so as to ride under the down turned end of a latch lever |42 as the end of bar h approaches its stop. Lever I 42 is mounted to slide and pivot on a rod |43 supported from head 41 and dog |4| is so placed on bar h that the end |42a of lever |42 drops down behind dog |4I practically at the instant the bar h strikes its stop to hold the bar in an` exact position. The friction box 85 then and lever |42 until friction box 85 has made two or some other even number of strokes so as to return to the position at which it dropped the bar h when the friction box`85 is reconnected to the bar h to cause it to lay another length of elastic yarn 8. In order that the movements of bar h and friction box 85 may be properly coordinated with the laying of yarn 1, lever 42 has a bell crank form and one arm thereof extends downwardly and forwardly from pivot |43 to4 a point immediately above the forward edge of the plating bar |44. Bar |44 has the same throw and timing as the friction box rod 86, being an ordinary part of the full fashioned knitting machine and driven from the usual coulier motion, not shown. The bar |44 has an oblong block |45 thereon on which is pivoted a dog |46 mounted in a cut-out on the under face of block |45 and has `a pin |46a which projects up through an arcuate slot 45a in the top of block |45. A tension spring |41 between pin |46a and pin |4512 on block |45 holds dog |46 normally in such position that its longer side lies flush against a side of the cut-out in block |45 which is toward the end of the machine and extends from the block at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the plating bar |44. The side of dog |46 which faces vtoward the center of the machine, however, is bevelled as shown at H61) to provide a camming surface. The lower end |4211 of bell lever |42, moreover, has a rounded lip |42c which lies in the path of surface |4613. Consequently as the bar |44 moves toward the end of the machine from the position sho'wn in Figs. 3l and 32, the longer and straight side of dog. |46 strikes the lip |42c and turns about its own axis so as to slide by end |4217 without disturbing the position of bar |42, spring |41 stretching to permit this. After bar 44 reverses and moves toward the center of the machine, camming surface |461) pushes lip |42c to one side thereby lifting lever |42 at the proper time to permit friction .box 85 to follow the ordinary friction box at the desired interval. The lever |42 thus is seen to have a double function in that it not only prevents rebound and holds the bar in the position to be engaged automatically by friction box 85, but also serves to time box 85 and yarn 8 properly with respect to the bodyyarn 1 so that the yarn 8 is laid along the top edges of the sinkers shortly after the sinkers have been pushed forward by the jacks |48 (Fig. 1'1). As before stated bar h must have a longer stroke than the other bars so as to lay the yarn 8 through the hooks. The longer stroke for bar h can be provided for either by cutting back the stops for this bar at the ends of the machine or by cutting off a smallamount at each end of the rod. It is assumed that the stroke of,bar h has been thus lengthened relatively to the other yarn carrier bars.

The special snapper provided for yarn 8 has been mentioned hereinabove. Itis illustrated in Figs. 11 and 20 and comprises a lever |49 pivotally supported from the rear beam |50 of the machine and having a roller |5| journalled at its front end and bearing on cam |52 (Fig. 16).

The rear end of lever |49 is drawn upwardly by a tension spring |53 the upper end of which isV to the lever |49 near its rear end and extending upwardly therefrom is thereby held as high as |58 are fixed. The outer end of rear arm |51 has Spring 58 projects forward froman arm |58 above a xed bar |60. The-elastic yarn 8. is led from the package in the moistening box 16| around a guide peg, then through the usual ring tension device, through a hole in arm |51, between the end of varm |58 and spring |59, through a hole in arm |58, and then down around another guide peg to the yarn nger 84. When rod |54 is held up and arm |58 thereby held down by cam |52, snapper spring |59 is raised from arm |58 by contact with the upper surface of bar |60 and yarn 8 thereby released from the pressure of spring |59 so that it is free to .pay out. The cam |52 is shaped so that, at the on yarn 8 for a small portion of the stroke of I carrier 84 to draw a bight of yarn 8 snugly about lip |0411. Owing to its conformation, the cam |52 then swings spring |58 against bar |60 to release yarn 8 so that it is free to pay out throughout a considerable part of the stroke of the carrier 84, but the cam |52 vraises arm |58 to take up any'slack in yarn 8 during'the latter part of the stroke of carrier 84. The -yarn 8,

therefore, will be responsive to up and down movements of hooks |04 over the entire distance between the hooks and not sag so as to drag on the sinkers and dividers at any points between the hooks, as well as to avoid the possibility that yarn 8 may foul some of the needles during knitting, of warn 1. The cam |52'then lifts the roller |5| so that arm 58 is at its maximum height to ensure that yarn 8 shall be tightly wrapped about lip |04b at the beginning of the return stroke in spite of the fact that the initial movement of carrier 84, being toward hook |04, tends to slacken yarn 8. Cam |52a is so shaped that,after shaft 33 has been shogged and roller |5| is on cam |52a, arm |58 is held so as to maintain tension on yarn 8 until the yarn 8 has been deposited in the angle of the loop shed 9a and the hooks |04 moved forward andv points ||a moved down nearly into contact with the needles |2. (SeeFig. 13.) Somewhat before the relative position of the parts shown in Fig. 13 is reached, however, the hook |04 on the side then removed from the yarn carrier 84 pulls its lower lip |0417 out of the bight 8b of the yarn 8 which was formed around it at the beginning of thelast stroke of carrier 84. Ihe

tension then on yarn 8 pulls up bight 8a between the last length o-f yarn'8 and the next preceding one so that it is removed from the selvedge and astrlp. X formed free from yarn 8. Thetension is then released by the snapper action so that the thread 8 will lie flat in the fabric without puckering, after which the snapper draws lightly on the yarn 8 again to pull up any slack that may have developed, followed by a maximum pull, by the snapper just at the shogging point so `that the roller 5| may shift back to cam |52 at the height required on such cam at the beginning of a thread laying motion.

The ordinary snapper spring for body yarn 1 is shown at |62 (Fig. 17). 'Ihe cam for snapper spring |62 is'shown at |63 in Fig. 16. The action of the snapper mechanism. for yarn 1 is the usual snapper action and is not described. It 

